How to Fix a Water-Damaged iPhone
Rescue a submerged iPhone by properly opening the chassis, disconnecting the battery, and treating moisture or corrosion with high-grade isopropyl alcohol.
- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
- Tap Start Camera Coach when you want hands-free voice help.
- Allow camera and microphone. Point your phone at the work; the coach watches your progress and tells you the next step.
🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ P2 Pentalobe screwdriver
- ✓ Tri-point Y000 screwdriver
- ✓ Suction cup handle
- ✓ Plastic spudger and opening picks
- ✓ ESD-safe soft-bristle brush
- ✓ Anti-static tweezers
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ 99% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
- ✓ Silica gel desiccant packs
- ✓ Lint-free microfiber cloths
- ✓ Replacement screen adhesive gasket
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Never plug in a wet or submerged iPhone to test it, as this can cause instantaneous short circuits.
- • Disconnect the battery terminal before touching any logic board components or using cleaning solvents.
- • Work in a well-ventilated room when using 99% isopropyl alcohol, and keep away from open flames.
- • Do not puncture, bend, or apply direct heat to the lithium-ion battery during disassembly.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (7 Steps)
Immediate Power Down and Exterior Drying
Turn the iPhone off immediately using the hardware buttons or screen slider if responsive; do not attempt to charge it. Eject the SIM card tray with a SIM ejector tool to allow trapped moisture an exit pathway. Thoroughly wipe down the exterior surfaces, speaker grilles, and Lightning/USB-C port with a lint-free microfiber cloth.
- • Screen is completely black and powered down
- • SIM tray is removed and port is dry to touch
- • Plugging the phone into a charger to see if it still turns on
- • Placing the phone in uncooked rice, which introduces conductive starch and dust
Remove Bottom Screws and Open Display
Use a P2 Pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two screws flanking the charging port. Attach a suction handle near the bottom edge of the glass and pull upward gently while inserting a thin plastic opening pick into the seam. Slice carefully through the waterproof perimeter adhesive, swinging the display open from the side like a book without straining delicate flex cables.
- • Perimeter adhesive separated along all four edges
- • Display assembly propped open at a 90-degree angle without tension on flex cables
- • Inserting metal pry tools too deep, which severs display or sensor flex ribbons
- • Opening the display past 90 degrees and tearing the motherboard connectors
Disconnect the Battery and Remove Display Assembly
Locate the metal EMI shield covering the battery connector and remove the retaining screws using the correct Tri-point or Phillips bit. Lift the shield away with tweezers and use a plastic spudger to pry the battery connector directly upward off the logic board. Unscrew the display cable shield, disconnect the display and digitizer ribbons, and set the screen assembly aside in a dry area.
- • Battery connector physically detached from board socket
- • Display assembly completely separated from rear enclosure
- • Using metal tweezers to pry the battery connector, causing a direct short
- • Mixing up screw lengths, which can cause irreparable 'long-screw damage' to the motherboard traces
Inspect Logic Board and Remove Corroded Modules
Check the Liquid Contact Indicators (LCIs) located inside the SIM slot and near top connectors; a solid red color confirms liquid intrusion. Unscrew the logic board standoffs and carefully disconnect the camera, charging flex, and antenna cables. Lift the logic board out of the housing to inspect both sides for white, green, or chalky corrosion deposits.
- • Logic board fully extracted from the aluminum chassis
- • Corrosion spots and mineral scale identified under bright lighting
- • Prying the logic board while a hidden grounding screw or antenna lead is still fastened
- • Touching exposed micro-components without grounding yourself to discharge static
Clean Mineral Deposits with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
Dip an ESD-safe soft-bristle brush into pure 99% isopropyl alcohol and gently scrub all corroded areas on the logic board and flex cable ends. The high-concentration alcohol displaces residual water and dissolves conductive mineral salts without leaving conductive residues. Use a lint-free swab to dab up dissolved grime and excess solvent from shielded areas.
- • All white or green mineral crust completely removed from solder joints
- • Board surface appears clean and free of sticky residue
- • Using 70% rubbing alcohol, which contains 30% water and accelerates oxidation
- • Scrubbing with excessive pressure, knocking tiny surface-mount resistors off the board
Desiccate Internal Components
Place the cleaned logic board, open chassis, and disconnected modules inside an airtight plastic container lined with fresh silica gel packs. Leave the components sealed undisturbed for at least 12 to 24 hours at room temperature to absorb all evaporated moisture. Avoid using hair dryers or heat guns, which melt internal camera optical stabilizers and microphone membranes.
- • All surfaces are completely dry with zero condensation under magnifying inspection
- • Rushing reassembly before all trapped solvent under BGA chips has fully evaporated
- • Applying high heat that warps delicate internal polymer brackets
Reassemble Chassis and Run Diagnostic Check
Reinstall the logic board into the chassis, securing all original screws into their exact original holes. Apply a new die-cut perimeter adhesive gasket to the housing edge, reconnect the display and sensor cables, fasten their metal shields, and connect the battery last. Press the display firmly into the frame until it clicks flush, install the two P2 bottom screws, and power on the device to test touch, cameras, speakers, and wireless functions.
- • Display sits flush with the frame without gaps or adhesive protrusions
- • Device boots to lock screen with fully functional touchscreen response
- • Connecting the battery before display cables are seated, which can blow the backlight circuit
- • Failing to replace water-seal adhesive, leaving the device fully exposed to future moisture
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by HowToBasic — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Plastic opening pick? Corner of a trimmed plastic gift card or rigid guitar pick
- No ESD nylon spudger? Wooden toothpick or plastic coffee stirrer edge
- No Silica gel packets? Sealed tub with an elevated wire rack over calcium chloride desiccant