How to build a PC
Assemble a desktop computer by mounting the CPU, memory, storage, motherboard, power supply, and graphics card inside a standard PC case.
This guide shows how to build a pc in 2-3 hours. Start with install cpu and m.2 ssd onto motherboard; follow the safety notes and step checkpoints below.
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- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
- Tap See 20-second demo if you want to understand it first.
- Tap Start Camera Coach when you want hands-free help, or Voice-only if you do not want to use the camera.
- Allow camera and microphone. Point your phone at the work; the coach watches your progress and tells you the next step.
🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ #2 Phillips head screwdriver
- ✓ Anti-static wrist strap
- ✓ Small flathead screwdriver
- ✓ Small flashlight or headlamp
- ✓ Flush wire cutters
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ PC case with pre-installed standoffs
- ✓ Motherboard
- ✓ CPU and compatible cooler with thermal paste
- ✓ RAM sticks
- ✓ M.2 NVMe SSD
- ✓ Power Supply Unit (PSU) with modular cables
- ✓ Graphics Card (GPU)
- ✓ Zip ties or velcro cable straps
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Keep the PSU switched off and unplugged from the wall until all internal wiring is complete.
- • Discharge static electricity regularly by touching unpainted metal on the case or wearing an ESD strap.
- • Handle the CPU strictly by its edges; never touch the gold contact pads or socket pins.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (6 Steps)
Install CPU and M.2 SSD onto Motherboard
Place the motherboard flat on top of its cardboard box. Open the CPU socket retention arm, align the gold triangle on the processor with the triangle mark on the socket, and gently drop it in without forcing. Insert the M.2 SSD into the primary slot at a 30-degree angle, press it flat against the standoff, and secure it with the tiny retention screw.
- • CPU sits flush inside socket with retention arm locked under its hook.
- • M.2 SSD lies parallel to the motherboard board secured by its screw or latch.
- • Applying downward pressure when dropping the CPU into the socket.
- • Over-tightening the delicate M.2 mounting screw.
Install RAM and CPU Cooler
Open the retention clips on the motherboard RAM slots (typically slots 2 and 4 for dual-channel). Align the notch on the bottom of each stick with the slot key and press firmly on both ends until the side latches click shut. Mount the CPU cooler onto the CPU bracket, tightening screws in a diagonal cross pattern to ensure even thermal paste spread.
- • RAM side clips are fully seated and parallel with the empty slot latches.
- • CPU cooler bracket is firmly mounted without wobbling when lightly nudged.
- • Forgetting to peel off the protective plastic peel from the bottom of the CPU cooler heatsink.
- • Installing RAM in adjacent slots instead of alternating dual-channel slots.
Mount Power Supply and Route Primary Cables
Slide the Power Supply Unit into the basement chamber of the PC case with the intake fan pointing toward the case ventilation cutout. Secure the PSU to the rear frame using four coarse-thread hex screws. Connect the 24-pin motherboard cable, 8-pin CPU EPS cable, and PCIe power cables to the PSU and feed them through the case grommets.
- • PSU fan aligns with the chassis dust filter mesh.
- • Four rear screws are snug and PSU does not slide inside the chassis.
- • Mounting the PSU with the fan suffocated against a solid internal panel.
- • Routing thick cables through front openings rather than behind the motherboard tray.
Install Motherboard into Case
Snap the rear I/O shield into the back cutout of the case if not pre-installed on the motherboard. Lower the assembled motherboard diagonally into the case, aligning its rear ports with the I/O shield and resting the board holes over the case standoffs. Fasten the motherboard using the designated rounded-top chassis screws in a star pattern.
- • Motherboard rear ports protrude cleanly through the I/O shield openings.
- • Every motherboard mounting hole shows a centered standoff beneath it with a secured screw.
- • Forgetting an extra or misplaced standoff that shorts out the underside of the board.
- • Letting metal grounding tabs from the I/O shield poke inside USB or HDMI ports.
Connect Case Cables and Power Leads
Plug the thick 24-pin ATX power connector into the right edge of the board until the retention clip snaps. Route the 8-pin CPU power cable behind the tray into the top-left header. Connect front panel USB, audio, and the tiny front panel power switch (PWR_SW) headers to their designated pins at the bottom edge according to the board diagram.
- • Main 24-pin power latch is fully clamped over the motherboard connector ridge.
- • Front panel power switch header is seated precisely on the two specified pins.
- • Mixing up the 8-pin PCIe cable with the 8-pin CPU EPS cable.
- • Plugging front panel power switch connectors onto the wrong pin rows.
Install GPU and Complete Initial Boot Test
Remove the correct rear expansion slot covers on the case corresponding to the top PCIe x16 slot. Open the slot latch, push the GPU firmly straight into the PCIe slot until it clicks, and secure its metal bracket to the case with two thumb screws. Plug in the dedicated PCIe power cables, connect display to the GPU port, and flip the PSU switch on for first boot.
- • GPU sits perfectly level with PCIe retention bracket locked over its tab.
- • Monitor receives display output and shows the motherboard BIOS/UEFI screen.
- • Plugging the monitor HDMI/DisplayPort cable into the motherboard rear instead of the graphics card.
- • Leaving PCIe power cables loosely seated or missing secondary power plugs.
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by mattykay — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Anti-static wrist strap? Regularly touch an unpainted metal section of the plugged-in PSU casing or grounded metal appliance
- No Flush wire cutters? Standard nail clippers or small kitchen scissors to trim zip ties